Terminology it essential in knowing exactly what you are looking for to wear if you want to get the correct or authentic 'look'. Without looking like a cookie cutter, we can create clothing of the period using period terminology , so that we will pay it forward and the people who follow us will use the correct terms.
So are Fortune Michelgrove a lovely person in 1570 England, and you are going to Court! This is exciting as your family will be able to use the connections you meet to help them in their business endevors. You are hoping to become a Lady in Waiting to the Queen, and you are a lessor cousin. Your family has spent all they have to outfit you in stunning regalia, so that you can actually dress to impress! You will litterally have the wealth of your family on your person. But? What will you be wearing?
Fortune has a Smocks of very White Linen embroidered by her Mother and siblings, she also has 2 made of silk that she is very careful with. She has a few square necked Smocks with different Parlets and she has several High Necked Smocks all with embroidery to make her special.
While we have been told this item is known as a "Chemise" this is not so, at least not in England. It would have been known as a Chemise if we were in France, and the English would never use a term that was of french. If you were living in Italy this piece would be known as Camisa or Camica. Each country has it's own term and since Fortune lives in England she would kjnow it by Smock, if she were not of the Nobilty she might call her Smock a Shift, however never would she call it Chemise. Smocks were washed regularly and scented with lavender and Lemon Balm.
Pair of Bodies
Fortune's next peice would be her Pair of Bodies, what we have inaccurately called a Corset, but they have been hard to really know what to be called as the fashions changed and the terms changed a lot during this time. Fortune would have had a couple of these bodies and they could have been attached to a skirt like petticoat or not. She might even have known a summer Pair of bodies with skirt as her 'Kirtle'. If Fortune was a merchant or lower Gentry person she might wear her Pair of Bodies showing to all like an outer piece of clothing, and perhaps would wear a doublet for cold. She might have sleeves that either were pinned or attached with laces on her Pair of Bodies.
Next under layers called petticoats would be placed on, Petticoats, agian this is a time where it was 20 to 40 degrees cooler in England! So woolen skirts, and linen skirts, some with decorations.
Forepart or Kirtle
Choices, Choices, Fortune's parents have had kirtles with sleeves of silk and trim or Forepart with matching sleeves. They can be exchanged to make more combinations. Some would be slashed and stamped to add additional interest. Fortune's parents might have sought to stretch her clothing by making up several matching undersleeves and 'foreparts' for her gowns. This where the part we see on the skirt or the Foreground could be of a lavish fabric, richly embroidered and bejewelled, but the back and sides of the skirt would be of less expensive fabrics. Fortune could interchange the foreparts and sleeves to make new combinations.
Kirtles are underdresses, sometimes they were Pair of Bodyes with a petticoat attached, and sometimes they were complete undergowns with embroidery and jewels in abundance. They did in fact go underneath the actual gown and
We have not seen any evidence to prove that ladies wore bum rolls prior to 1580's to help with the wheeled farthingale. So Fortune would not have had one of these as she is living in 1570's.
The actual gown would be lavishly embroidered and jewelled, made from taffeta, satin and velvets and more!
Coifs and Hair
Coifs or hat covering
Jewels and Other Accessories
Hats jewelled and lavish, jewery of pearls and precious stones, rings adorned her fingers and Fur muffs and gloves, even masks to protect Fortune's face would have been bought for her use. Gloves would be perfumed and ribbons for her hair
Shoes of fine leathers were ordered and sturdy boots
Jackets and Coats
Not much use for Capes in this time for Fortune, if she needs a coat, then you could use a Gabardine which is a long coat like garment, there are also Ropas that could would have been used for extra cover during travel.
Books For More Research and where I got my information
An Elizabethan Inheritance: The Hardwick Hall Textiles, Santina M. Levey
The Silk Industry in Renaissance Venice
Patterns of Fashion: The Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women c. 1560-1620, Janet Arnold
The Tailor's Pattern Book, 1589, Juan de Alcega, Facsimile, with translation by Jean Pain and Cecelia Bainton
The Tudor Tailor: Reconstructing sixteenth-century dress, Ninya Mikhaila and Jane Malcolm-Davies
Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd, Janet Arnold